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DOXA SUB Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition 39mm, Stainless Steel

Name: DOXA SUB Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition | 39mm, Stainless Steel
Brand: DOXA
SKU: 18800193
Price: 2000.0 USD
Availability: InStock

804.10.031.29-SE17 39mm

View Specs

$2,000

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A rare military reference reimagined for everyday wear, this is the DOXA SUB Army 200T For Hodinkee Limited Edition — Our take on one of the most elusive references in DOXA's history.

DOXA SUB Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition - (Ref. 804.10.031.29-SE17) Product Details

Our limited edition release brings one of DOXA's rarest references, the mil-spec "Army," into the brand's modern SUB 200T case for the first time. At 39mm in diameter and 41.5mm lug-to-lug, this 250-piece limited edition trims the vintage Army's footprint by roughly 10%, while softening its stark black accents into a warmer, Hodinkee-tweaked sand-and-grey palette with a vintage-inspired aluminum bezel and Old Radium Super-LumiNova throughout.

General

Condition

New

Brand

DOXA

Reference

804.10.031.29-SE17

Year

2026

Family

Sub 200T

Product Code

18800193

Power Reserve

38 Hours

Watch Display

Analog

Water Resistance

200m

Features

Date display
Deployment clasp
Automatic movement

Case

Case Size

39mm

Case Depth

10.70mm

Case Shape

Cushion

Case Material

316L Stainless steel case + screw-down caseback

Bezel Material

Aluminum

Bezel Color

Circular brushed aluminum bezel insert has been anodized with Pantone Cool Grey 9C (Hodinkee Grey). The minute markers are spared in the anodizing process to show the raw circular brushed aluminum beneath. The numerals and triangle are etched into the bezel and filled with Old Radium Superluminova.

Lug to Lug

41.50mm

Lug Width

18.00mm

Crystal

Sapphire

Dial

Dial Color

Tan with grey outer ring & color-matched date disk, Old Radium lume, orange hands.

Dial Texture

Sandblasted

Dial Markers

Indexes in Old Radium Super-LumiNova

Stone Set

No

Movement

Type

Automatic

Caliber

Swiss mechanical automatic / Frequency 28,800 vph (4.0 Hz) / 26 Jewels / Decorated by DOXA

Bracelet

In-house Movement

Yes

Type

Rubber Strap

Bracelet Material

Taupe Rubber Strap + Grey Nylon NATO

Stone Set

No

Buckle/Clasp

Stainless steel folding clasp with racheting wetsuit extension

Worn In, By Design: Case, Bezel, and Finishing Touches

On the dial, a richly textured sand color replaces the stark tan of the vintage original, framed by the Army's signature checkerboard track and a date wheel finished in a soft, faded shade we're calling "Hodinkee Grey." That same faded grey carries over to the bezel, chosen in anodized aluminum rather than the ceramic used on DOXA's current Army, a material that ages and patinas with wear rather than staying static. The minute markers were deliberately spared during anodizing, so raw, circularly brushed aluminum peeks through from beneath, giving the bezel a lived-in texture right out of the box. The etched numerals and orientation triangle are filled with Old Radium Super-LumiNova, while DOXA's oversized orange hands provide instant, unmistakable legibility. True to the original mil-spec, the bezel trades DOXA's famous "No-Deco" dive scale for a standard 60-minute countdown track. The case is built in raw 316L stainless steel, a direct nod to the way original Army cases wore down to bare metal after years of hard use. Built on the streamlined SUB 200T architecture, the case omits a Helium Escape Valve to keep the profile slim, while still delivering a genuine 200 meters of water resistance.

From Combat Brief to Collector's Grail: DOXA's Army Legacy

In 1969, DOXA developed the "Army" in collaboration with the Swiss Army as a dedicated mil-spec dive watch, trading the SUB 300's bright orange dial for a tan dial with a distinct checkerboard surround and an oil-dipped black case. Produced in small batches through 1975 and issued mainly to support personnel attached to the Swiss Army's elite combat divers unit rather than the divers themselves, it rarely surfaces on the vintage market today. The handful of survivors, their coatings worn back to raw steel through years of service, have become a low-key obsession among serious collectors. DOXA and Watches of Switzerland reintroduced a modern take on the Army in ceramic a few years ago; this Hodinkee collaboration takes the reference in a different direction, sized down and rebuilt with a vintage-inspired approach to materials.