Patek Philippe Calatrava 'Waterproof'

Patek Philippe has long been known for its complicated watchmaking, but following the stock market crash of 1929, fewer clients had the means to purchase these high-end timepieces. After securing a controlling interest in the firm, Jean and Charles Henri Stern decided to enlist the help of an English designer named David Penney to create a simple watch that would come in at a lower price point and appeal to the firm’s clientele.

Using the principles espoused by the Bauhaus school and its minimalist, function-first philosophy, Penney conceived the Calatrava, taking its name from the Spanish military order established in the 12th century which had become the symbol of Patek Philippe. Since its debut in 1932, the Calatrava has become a byword for a simple, time-only dress watch — even from brands other than Patek itself.

This particular Calatrava, a reference 3429, embodies all of the things we love about the world’s most elegant dress watch family, plus offers something special. Housed in a 34mm yellow gold 'Waterproof' case, this piece features a beautiful sunburst silver dial with applied indices and subsidiary seconds at the 6: 00 position, a matching pencil handset, and Patek's Calibre 27-460M automatic-winding movement within.

Produced in exceedingly small numbers, this rare 'waterproof' variant of the Calatrava flies under the radar and epitomizes the phrase, "if you know, you know..."