Patek Philippe Ellipse 'Jumbo'

Introduced in the late 1960s, the Patek Philippe Ellipse was inspired by the Golden Ratio, referred to as the ‘Divine Proportion’ by Luca Pacioli. An observed ratio in nature, the Golden Ratio is said to be an aesthetically balanced ratio used on the human body, trees, and more. With the Ellipse, Patek made the ratio of the major to the minor axis 1.618 to 1 — the golden ratio, de divina proportione. The same shape is applied to the pin buckle, which itself is an ellipse.

Debuting eight years before the iconic Nautilus, the Ellipse — with its distinctive oval shape — was unlike anything else in Patek Philippe’s catalogs. During the 1960s and 1970s, the Ellipse line became emblematic of the era for design and signaled an elevated level of taste, particularly given the popularity of function-first tool watches that defined the 60s for many.

The Ellipse featured a new design immediately recognizable as luxurious in a changing industry. Keep in mind that the Ellipse launched just before the quartz crisis. Patek was well aware of what was coming, and responded preemptively with a banger. The Ellipse became the watch to have if you were successful. Today, the Ellipse remains an excellent value in the world of vintage and neo-vintage Patek Philippe.

This particular Ellipse, a Reference 3605/001J, is one of the most archetypal configurations for the Ellipse, executed in 18K yellow gold with a champagne dial and integrated 18K yellow gold bracelet. The 3605 was arguably the earliest “jumbo”, manufactured from 1971 until 1980. This was the largest Patek Ellipse reference ever made.

Thierry Stern best described the Ellipse in 2018 celebrating the 50th anniversary of the model: “It’s one of those watches that shows you how to make a Patek Philippe. No gimmicks, just purity and beauty expressed through simple design”.

‘Nough said.

Powered by the self-winding Calibre 28-255C, this piece contains the same movement later featured in the Patek Naulitus, reference 3700. What's more, this piece is accompanied by its Certificate of Origin.

While for many years the Ellipse line fell out of popular favor, we’ve seen a resurgence of collector enthusiast interest in the design more recently. These watches, and this Ellipse in particular, have a charm that'll instantly put a smile on your face.

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