Patek Philippe Calatrava Diamond Bezel

Patek Philippe has long been known for its complicated watchmaking, but following the stock market crash of 1929, fewer clients had the means to purchase these high-end timepieces. After securing a controlling interest in the firm, Jean and Charles Henri Stern decided to enlist the help of an English designer named David Penney to create a simple watch that would come in at a lower price point and appeal to the firm’s clientele.

Using the principles espoused by the Bauhaus school and its minimalist, function-first philosophy, Penney conceived the Calatrava, taking its name from the Spanish military order established in the 12th century which had become the symbol of Patek Philippe. Since its debut in 1932, the Calatrava has become a byword for a simple, time-only dress watch — even from brands other than Patek itself.

This particular Calatrava, a Reference 5297G-001, is housed in a 38mm 18k white gold case with a sparkling factory diamond set bezel, sapphire crystal, signed crown, and a polished, concave bezel. It features a gloss black dial with applied diamond indices, a framed date window at 3:00, and a matching 'dauphine' handset.

This piece comes fitted to a signed black alligator leather strap with a signed 18k white gold pin buckle, and is powered by Patek Philippe's self-winding Calibre 324 SC movement, visible via a sapphire exhibition caseback. This example also includes all its factory goodies.

This is a lovely, rare execution for a modern Calatrava!