Omega De Ville 'Emeraude' Tank by Andrew Grima

Overall Condition: Very good condition overall. Case shows light wear. Dial and matching handset show even patination.

There was a brief moment in the 1970s when watch design became genuinely experimental.

Traditional round cases gave way to bold geometric forms, crystals became sculptural elements, and the line between jewelry, industrial design, and watchmaking began to blur. Few brands embraced this shift more elegantly than Omega, particularly through the influence of celebrated jewelry designer Andrew Grima and the avant-garde design language that emerged from the era.

This Omega De Ville 'Emeraude' is a perfect example.

Housed in a striking 22mm x 46mm stainless steel case, the watch is less a conventional dress watch than a study in proportion and perspective. Its elongated rectangular form is dominated by a dramatic faceted crystal that transforms the dial beneath into something almost jewel-like. The effect recalls a cut gemstone viewed from above, refracting light and adding depth to an otherwise minimalist design.

The grey dial is a lesson in restraint. Slim 'baton' markers radiate from the center, while simple hands and discreet De Ville branding let the watch's architecture speak for itself. Free from unnecessary decoration, the dial feels remarkably modern even half a century later.

This aesthetic traces directly back to Omega's collaboration with Andrew Grima, whose groundbreaking "About Time" collection challenged conventional notions of what a watch could look like. While the Emeraude was part of Omega's subsequent commercial offerings, it clearly carries Grima's influence: bold geometry, gemstone-inspired forms, and a willingness to prioritize design over timekeeping.

Inside beats Omega's manually wound Caliber 620, a reliable and elegantly slim movement perfectly suited to the watch's sleek profile. The piece is fitted to a warm tan leather strap with a signed Omega steel pin buckle, completing a look that feels simultaneously futuristic and unmistakably 1970s.

Today, collectors spend enormous sums pursuing the era's most famous design icons. Watches like the Emeraude remind us that some of the most interesting creations came from brands willing to take risks.