Patek Philippe Calatrava

Overall Condition: Excellent condition overall. Case shows normal signs of wear and retains strong geometry and legible hallmarks. Dial is intact and hand handset is in excellent condition. Factory leather strap and pin buckle show light wear.

Patek Philippe has long been known for its complicated watchmaking, but following the stock market crash of 1929, fewer clients had the means to purchase these high-end timepieces. After securing a controlling interest in the firm, Jean and Charles Henri Stern decided to create a simple watch that would come in at a lower price point and appeal to the firm’s clientele.

Using the principles espoused by the Bauhaus school and its minimalist, function-first philosophy, Patek conceived the Calatrava, taking its name from the Spanish military order established in the 12th century which had become the symbol of Patek Philippe. Since its debut in 1932, the Calatrava has become a byword for a simple, time-only dress watch — even from brands other than Patek itself.

This particular Calatrava, a Reference 5116R — that's right 5116 not 5119 — features a 36mm rose gold case with a sapphire crystal, a signed crown, a 'hobnail' finished bezel and the classic manually wound movement that we are used to from the more popular 5119, but the rare 5116 comes with an enamel dial instead of the lacquer finish of the regular 5119. This beautiful piece has just a slight difference visible to only the trained eye. This detail, however, makes this piece especially rare.

This piece comes fitted to a signed black alligator leather strap with a signed rose gold pin buckle, and is powered by Patek Philippe's hand-wound Calibre 215 PS movement, thankfully visible via a sapphire exhibition caseback.

Sure, you could get yourself a modern dress watch that tells the time just fine — and that probably ends up in a drawer after a while.

But a real Calatrava from the world’s greatest watchmaker is forever.