Patek Philippe Calatrava 'Diamond Hour'

Overall Condition: Outstanding condition overall. Case, dial and factory strap are in near-mint condition.

Patek Philippe has long been known for its complicated watchmaking, but following the stock market crash of 1929, fewer clients had the means to purchase these high-end timepieces. After securing a controlling interest in the firm, Jean and Charles Henri Stern decided to to create a simple watch that would come in at a lower price point and appeal to the firm’s clientele.

Using the principles espoused by the Bauhaus school and its minimalist, function-first philosophy, the company conceived the simple Reference 96. It was only in the 1980s that this series of simple dress watches would receive a dedicated collection designation, Calatrava, which takes its name from the Spanish military order established in the 12th century that serves as the symbol of Patek Philippe. These days, 'Calatrava' is a byword for a simple dress watch — even from brands other than Patek Philippe.

This piece, a Reference 7200/50G-100, takes the idea of this simple men's dress watch and adopts it into an elegant ladies' design. Housed in a sumptuous 35mm 18K white case with a signed crown and 'officer'-style lugs, it features a mother-of-pearl dial with diamond indices, a matching 'dot' outer minute track, and a matching white gold 'spade' handset.

Powered by the Patek Philippe Calibre 240 ultra-thin automatic movement — whose attractive finishing and solid-gold winding rotor are visible via a sapphire caseback — this beautiful piece comes paired to a signed, blue alligator strap with square scales, tone-on-tone stitching, and a white gold deployant buckle. As a bonus, it also contains all its factory goodies and Certificate of Origin.

Simply put, this excellent Calatrava is everything you need — and nothing you don’t!