Tavannes Hermès Triple Register Chronograph

Overall Condition: Great vintage condition overall. Case shows normal signs of wear throughout. Dial and handset are in excellent condition with even patina and minor lume decay.

There are vintage chronographs that are compelling because of their movements, others because of their dials, and still others because of the name printed beneath 12 o’clock. This extraordinary 1940s Tavannes manages all three…and then adds Hermès to the equation.

Tavannes was among Switzerland’s most significant watch manufacturers during the first half of the 20th century, producing sophisticated watches and movements while maintaining relationships with important retailers and luxury houses. This rare chronograph was made for Hermès, whose name appears discreetly beneath the Tavannes signature on its remarkable black gilt dial.

And that dial is the star. Warm gilt printing contrasts beautifully against the glossy black surface, with large Arabic numerals, three subsidiary registers, an outer telemeter scale, and elegant golden feuille hands creating a wonderfully dense yet balanced composition. Decades of age have only added character, giving the watch exactly the sort of presence collectors seek in an untouched vintage chronograph.

At 38mm, the stainless steel case is exceptionally large for a 1940s wristwatch. Its construction is equally interesting: a multi-part “clamshell” design developed to provide improved resistance to dust and moisture, with the movement effectively enclosed within the case structure.

Inside is another major attraction: the manually wound Valjoux Calibre 71. The large 14-ligne, column-wheel chronograph movement is closely related to the celebrated Valjoux 72 architecture. It represents exactly the sort of high-grade movement one hopes to find inside a chronograph of this caliber.

The combination is exceptional: 38mm steel clamshell case, Valjoux 71, black gilt dial, triple-register chronograph, AND Hermès provenance.

It is difficult to imagine a much better recipe for a 1940s chronograph—and considerably harder to find another one.