Pre-Owned Seiko by Analog Shift Seiko Automatic Chronograph 'Bullhead' 40990320/AS05506

Why We Love It

Though the Swiss often get all the glory for producing the first automatic chronograph in 1969, Seiko quietly released the Calibre 6139 — a rugged automatic chronograph unit — as early as May of the same year.

In 1970, it made a few tweaks, adding an hour totalizer and a new quickset system, and released the Calibre 6138. Like its predecessor, the 6138 could be found in a number of unique dial and case configurations that have maintained collector interest through the years. Models such the Yachtsman and Kakune, often known better by their nicknames as the “UFO” and “Big Blue,” respectively, are particularly popular.

One of the most distinctive executions of the 6138 is this particular model, the 6138-0049 — or as it’s more commonly known, the “Bullhead.” In this execution, the movement was turned 90 degrees, resulting in subsidiary dial placement at 9:00 and 3:00 and the crown and pushers on top of the case. Sporting a large, thick steel case and unique brown and gold color patterning to the dial, the Bullhead has a truly unmistakeable profile and stands out amongst vintage chronographs of the era. Complemented by its rugged automatic chronograph movement, it makes a compelling addition to any collection.

This particular ref. 6138-0049 features a 44mm stainless steel case with an unsigned crown and barrel pushers at 11 and 1 o’clock; an acrylic crystal; a luminous brown vignette dial with gold sub-registers and a framed day-date window; a matching handset; a brown tachymeter bezel; and a stainless steel multi-link bracelet with signed blade clasp. For a watch from 1977, the dial, case and bracelet are in outstanding condition. Amazingly, this 6138-0049 comes with its inner and outer boxes, books, undated warranty card and hangtag.

It’s one thing to find an important vintage watch with much of its original ephemera. It’s quite another to find one that’s still so affordable over 50 years later!

The Story

For over 140 years, Seiko has been cranking out innovative and impeccably engineered watches at every price point, from entry-level Seiko 5s to world-class haute horlogerie pieces under the Grand Seiko brand. Underpinning the company’s efforts has been the mass production of reliable and accurate movements paired with a wide array of case and dial configurations. 

Founded in 1881 by clockmaker and businessman Kintarō Hattori in Tokyo, Japan as “K. Hattori,” Seiko began importing Western timepieces and selling them in the local market. In 1892, Hattori changed the name of the firm to Seikosha (“house of exquisite workmanship”), which was further altered to “Seiko” in 1924. Following the Second World War, during which Seiko produced watches for the Japanese military, the company began its streak of innovations based upon affordable, in-house movements and Japanese savoir faire. These included myriad dive watches such as the famed 6105 and the fan-favorite 6139 chronograph. 

Later, in 1969, Seiko would go on to produce the Astron, the world’s first quartz watch. This technological innovation was followed by the Seiko Kinetic in the 1980s, which married quartz accuracy with automatic, self-powering functionality. Today, Seiko’s product offerings are vast, including dress watches, dive watches, chronographs and much more, all of which are powered by in-house movements comprising different types of technology. 

Despite a move toward luxury positioning and pricing in the brand’s modern offerings, vintage Seiko classics can still be had at incredibly reasonable prices today, making them a favorite entry point into the vintage watch world for myriad collectors. From their availability in post exchanges on military bases around the world to their fame from films such as Apocalypse Now to their presence at six Olympic Games, Seiko watches are deeply ingrained in the consciousness of the contemporary collector.

of great taste.